Drafting a Bra

by - 7:25 AM


A friend visited last week for a few days, for my birthday. Our conversation turned to bras. I'm a bit of a bramaniac and bravangelist at the moment. I want everyone who wears a bra to have the same level of comfort and fit I've got used to since finding a well fitting bra.  Three days later this was the result.



This blog post isn't going to tell you how to draft a bra. It's a taster to show what's involved. A well fitting bra is likely to take a minimum of three fittings.

There are several methods.The method I use is the Porcelynne method. With accurate measurements and the correct wire you can get a very good fit first time.

Firstly you will need to take accurate measurements. You'll need more than the standard under bust and full bust measurements that RTW (ready to wear) use. But RTW isn't a custom fit. You'll also need your wire size. Even for unwired bras with the Porcelynne method. The wire size is a crucial part of getting the right volume. Knowing your wire size does not mean you have to wear a wire.

First step is to draft your band. Depending on your wire, and body shape, your draft may look nothing like this

And then test for fit. The best way is to make a tester band so you can easily baste in your cups to check cups for fit.

If your band fits. And it will, unless you have poor measurements, an incorrect wire or an unusual body shape, you can move on to drafting the cups.

Next you need to do a volume test. I use my photocopier so I can return to earlier versions if my changes don't work.


Whatever method you choose for drafting this is only the first step. I don't have a fitting photo, but we identified that the apex needed to be moved towards the front. I also drafted for a regular wire but the wire I was using was a different shape. I chose to draft for the regular wire because the wire was closer to a regular than a demi wire. It meant I had to adjust the shape of my pieces.
I drew new lines on the tester cups. adjusted my pieces and tested again.
And, again, I don't have a photo.
Did I mention it was my birthday week? I hadn't planned on making a bra, much less writing it up as a blog.

The next day we went shopping for pretty lace, fabric, elastic, rings and sliders. I had wire casing and the right sized wire.

I found some of what I needed but no suitable fabric, I had to use what I had available at home. I used woven cotton, it's less forgiving than knits for avoiding wrinkles. I did find some really pretty lace though. And the width of that lace helped determine the bra style.

The next step is to make a sloper (or block) from the pattern that fits. 

The heavy black lines are the width of the lace.

The pattern (without seam allowances).

And, yes, you guessed it, another fitting test.
Et voila, c'est  finis.

If you are interested in learning how to make or draft your own bra, Bare Essentials 3rd edition, book and supplies from Porcelynne.com  or the on-line course available clicking the links.

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