So now you have a wire that fits and you want to get started making a bra.
But how will you know if it fits?
The best way to eliminate fitting issues is to have a band that fits you well, that you can baste your cups into, to check the fit.
Here are some step by step instructions of how to make a tester band.
I started with a pattern I drafted using Bare Essentials 3rd Edition by Jennifer Lynne Fairbanks-Matthews. You can follow these instructions with any band you want to use as a tester band.
For a tester band you don't have to use expensive plush backed elastics, wire casing or fancy bra making fabrics. The only thing I am going to use in this tester band that I wouldn't swap for other materials is the powernet I use for the back of the band in all my bras. You can use reclaimed findings from old rtw (ready to wear) bras, you're not going to make a pretty, wearable bra, you're going to make a frame you can baste cups into to test the fit and you're likely to re-use it multiple times to get the fit right, depending on the pattern you are using.
First, gather together the things you'll need.
- I used a scrap of new quilting weight cotton for the front band. You need a stable fabric that doesn't stretch (mechanical stretch is OK).
- A piece of powernet (or whatever fabric recommended for the back band/you've drafted for).
- A hook and eye fastener.
- Approx 30" (76cm) cotton herringbone tape for the wire casing. You're not going to wear this bra, any tape will do so long as it will bend round the shape of the cups and hold your wire. Poke through isn't a problem, because you're not going to be wearing the bra.
- 2-3 yards/metres of elastic for the band and straps. Again, fancy plush backed elastic isn't necessary for this project
- A couple of safety pins or suspender clips.
You can get all your sewing supplies from porcelynne.com
1. Cut out your pieces.
Add 1/4" (6mm ) to the top to create a hem allowance - you do not need to do this on your actual bra if you are lining it.
2. Mark your pattern matching notches clearly. This will save you loads of time when you fit cups. They will not be used again today. I use ball point pen. I don't want it to disappear. Ever,
3. The next step I don't do when I'm making a bra, it's unnecessary because the raw edge will be enclosed in the underwire casing. Neaten the edge so that the fabric won't fray. I use my overlocker (serger) taking care not to trim any fabric. (If you're using something like duoplex this step may not be necessary, use your judgement.) If you try to do this stage later, you may struggle going round the curve and keeping the stitches on the fabric.
4. Sew the side seams and finish the edges so they don't fray. I overlocked, you can use any finish you like.
5. Add the elastics to the top and bottom of the band. Normally you wouldn't add the top elastic at this stage because you run it round the armhole but, as this is a tester bra, we're treating it differently.
Even though we're not using plush backed elastic I sewed it the same way. On the right side, with a zigzag stitch.
Even though we're not using plush backed elastic I sewed it the same way. On the right side, with a zigzag stitch.
8. Now we'll add the tape for the the underwires. You can use underwire casing if you prefer, in which case omit the folding over steps, you will need the channel to be open to insert the wires.
Fold the end of the tape over so it won't fray but further than the length needed for wire play so that your wires don't get trapped in the casing. You need them to be removable to sew cups into your tester frame. Sew with the edge close to where the cup seam will lie. You are mimicking the position of where it would be in a bra but this is not the way casing is normally sewn into a bra.
Run the tap up to the edge at the centre front.
9. Sew the other edge of the tape from the right side to get a beautiful, even finish.
If you have to overlap your wires, sew the centre front in such a way that the wires can pass freely through your casing.
12. Insert your wire, The coloured end is usually the centre of the wire. This wire was pink at the short end (centre), grey at the long end (outside). The colour is for identification purposes, Different manufacturers use different colours.
You're now ready to use your band for testing cups.
A quick demonstration of correct fit. I knew this wouldn't need any adjustment because it was drafted to my body measurements. I pinned the ends to the straps to the frame next to the wires. For fitting tester cups, you would pin this to the strap point on your cups. If you need to make adjustments to your band, now is the time to do it. Transfer any alterations to your pattern for future use.
Suspender clips make a quick, easy to use fastening instead of safety pins.
Suspender clips make a quick, easy to use fastening instead of safety pins.
At the side and under the arm, no fat or flesh overhanging the top or bottom of the band, the wire sits in the crease under the breast without sitting on breast tissue. No fold under the arm.
At the front the wires sit flush with the sternum. They shouldn't be resting on breast tissue. In spite of overlapping these wires, they do. I would be better with shorter wires at the front.
At the back the band sits parallel to the floor, doesn't ride up the back. No overhanging 'back fat'. I have lots of loose skin due to weight loss so the elastic isn't as smooth as it would be if I'd never gained the weight.
Next job, fitting the cups...
